Fukushima

Fukushima is a prefecture of contrasts and, increasingly, of recovery. The Aizu region in the west preserves one of Japan's most complete samurai castle towns — Aizuwakamatsu — where the white-walled Tsurugajo overlooks streets lined with lacquerware shops and sake breweries producing Aizu's distinctive dry style. The Bandai Highlands to the north contain a plateau of volcanic lakes, highland marshes, and autumn colours that rival anything in Japan. And at the fringes of the city of Koriyama, the post town of Ouchi-juku survives almost entirely intact, its thatched-roof buildings lining a single street as they have for 300 years.

Complex, resilient, and quietly proud. Fukushima defies simple description — and rewards visitors who come prepared to engage with its full range.